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Making an adjustable BMW F650GS high-screen. |
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When I purchased and fitted the stock BMW high-screen to my F650GS and went for a ride I felt that the wind and weather protection I got was barely any better than from the original silver panel, which it replaced. So I stood and looked at the screen and decided it need to be more upright like the Dakar screen is, to be more effective. I made the modification as follows - I purchased two drawer-flap retaining-brackets as pictured below. These are the main components, plus two M5x20mm bolts and 'wing-nuts' and four 18mm diameter washers and four rubber washers. |
| The brackets I purchased are just over 7" long. I drilled out the the rivets on the hinged end piece and the sliding piece till I was just left with just the long bracket. | ![]() |
| The end with the hole was
bolted into the upper fixing on the silver indicator panel, as shown in
the pics. A slight kink (about 10
degrees) was needed in the end with the hole. The reason for this is that
the brackets will
bow outwards from the bottom fixing if you don't bend the end, reducing
its strength.
I made the bend by trial and error till the brackets laid snugly against the screen when the lower fixing was tight. You can just about see the slight bend at the bottom of the right-hand picture. If you live in a country where it rains get the brackets "properly" chromed, as the first ones I tried went rusty within a week, although they were supposedly 'chromed' from new. I got the few bits I needed from nearby hardware shops. The long torx bolts originally provided with the screen kit, which used to go through the plastic V-piece were instead used to fix the bottom end of the bracket to the indicator panel as those bolts now need to be longer to accept the spacers. I needed about 10mm thick worth of spacers and washers so that the bracket didn't foul the silver plastic moulding above the fixing point. (see pics). For the two rubber slider spacers, one each side for friction on the brackets, I used some rubber sheeting that was in my garage and just drilled it, but large diameter rubber washers or grommets would do equally well, as long as they are not too soft. |
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The two new holes I made in the corner of the screen were carefully drilled out to clear an M5 bolt, around 10mm to 12mm in from the radiused corner. I've used a wing-nut for ease of tightening on the 20mm long bolt for now, but I'm looking for a circular type threaded knob to make it look neater. On the 'inside' of the screen I've only used a single 18mm diameter washer under the bolt head as there's not a lot of room to spare inside, when the screen is in the down position. |
The bolt which fixed the bottom of the screen needed to be slightly longer as it was left slightly 'free' but I didn't make it too long or it would have fouled the top of the head-lamp as it was screwed in. The single hole in the bottom edge of the high-screen needed to be slightly enlarged and 'ovalled' vertically, to accept the different angles that the lower screw now makes through the screen. I did it by putting a drill through the hole and rocking it upwards and downwards gently through an arc of about 60 degrees to ovalise the hole. I didn't tighten up the lower screw any more than was required to locate it in the 'high' position, as it would break the bottom of the screen the if it was forced into the raised position. (Maybe I'll use a rubber spacer behind the head?). To stop it loosening I used a spot of glue on the thread. As a result of more 'testing' and comments I've received, I think I'm going to add a small hinge at the bottom of the screen, rather than just relying on the bolt in the ovalled slot. This will serve two purposes (1) It will enable the screen to be raised slightly higher if necessary (2) For the same 'height' as pre-hinge, the screen will be tilted backwards slightly more than before, making it slightly more aerodynamic. I've also added a small piece of rubber to the top of the 'instrument panel'' to stop the screen rubbing in the 'low' position, as I've dispensed with the plastic V-piece to enable the screen to go really low when needed. |
![]() Lowest. |
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![]() From my sitting position - screen at lowest. |
![]() From my sitting position - screen at highest. |
From my semi-standing position as in some of my Trail-Riding. The edge of the paved area in the photo is three feet in front of the wheel so I can now see over the screen to dodge between those loose rocks so prevalent on some of the slow and nagery UK trails. Peering through muddy and distorting plastic became quite hazardous previously. |
I went for a ride to an indicated
90mph and the brackets showed no sign of bending , which was my only fear when
constructing it. I did notice in the shop at the time they also sold a heavier-duty version of the bracket, but I didn't want the final result to look too agricultural. I'm very happy with my screen as I can now ride with my visor up in the City or when Touring with the screen in a 'high' position or with it 'down' for very hot weather riding or Trail-Riding. It takes less than a minute to make height change adjustments. I'm looking forward to trying it in the rain (shouldn't be long) to see how well it throws the rain over the top of my helmet. I've been further testing with my open-face helmet, albeit at a more sedate pace, and it's even quieter than using my full-face Schuberth. In the highest position bugs and flies are deflected in the air-stream right over the top of my helmet ... Bliss. |